Kardamyli to Monemvasia

We spent two nights in a self-catering suite in Kardamyli. This means we were forced to spend a part of the day on the beach. Not the beach that would be in the cove just to the left from the photo above (taken from our balcony), because I would die trying to get there, but to another sand beach a few kilometers away in Stoupa. We managed to plunk ourselves in chairs on the beach outside the Melissa Taverna at exactly the sunniest and warmest part of the day. The waiter came to our beach table to see if we wanted anything. Of course, since we were enjoying his perfectly placed chairs there we said yes and ordered a 500 ml beer to split. Our beach experience cost us very little. It was added to our lunch bill. Lunch for Tom was more sea bream, but this time filleted, so no head or bones to work around. I had what I thought would be one kafta, but turned out to be three, so I shared. The house wine was an organic white which was delicious.

We settled into our place for snacks at dinnertime. It was one of the easiests places to be slow that I can remember, and I loved it. When Tom found himself bored, he hiked to the beach that would kill me, or down to the sea from the property we were on. The downside to Kardamyli this weekend were the mosquitos that arrived the second day. This was their first showing, according to our host. Tom is very allergic, so as the night progressed, we moved from our balcony to inside. So did the mosquitos. Tom’s DNA is now smacked all around those two rooms. I happen to be a fine mosquito smacker with a tea towel. Poor Tom. Those mosquitoes ate well. They never touched me.

This morning we packed up and drove two and a half hours on some very narrow cliff roads. Or Tom did the driving, and I did the ooohing and awwwing. The mountainsides are in full bloom. Pinks at the top, yellows and greens, and poppies roadside. I decided a photo really couldn’t do it justice, so I didn’t try. We made it to the island of Monemvasia, drove across the bridge and started the search for a parking spot. Visitors park at the edge of the rock for about 2 km. No cars are allowed inside the city gate.

Lunch was delicious. Our room here over a little bistro is generous and comfortable. Tom hiked the ”rock” as they call it, and I hung out in the room watching the 15 foot waves on the sea from the 40 mph wind gusts. The weather turned not long after we left the beach yesterday. Thankfully, the thunderstorms that were predicted have not found us. (The inn owner in Kardamyli (I think!) tried to tell us that weather coming from the south – Africa – is not as predictable as the other weather. No slam on Africa, but I think it’s because the southern weather crosses open water before finding its way to Greece.)

Just a reminder, it is not Easter here. That’s next Sunday. And while most in Greece will say they they are Orthodox, very few practice. The churches are mostly empty. And that’s one other strange thing about this trip to Europe. Usually one visits a church a day, and I haven’t even been in one yet. I think that’s because the churches here can be very small. I assume that means very intimate. And do I have a right to barge in?

It’s still a couple of hours before the sun sets here. The poor weather promises to continue for another day or so. Next stop is Nafplio. I’ll check in again the second day there.